How to remove the fan. How to remove the cooler and how to install the processor and cooler. Smart installation. Capacitor failure

Man loves warmth. In the warmth it is comfortable and cozy, joyful and familiar. What a pity that the human brainchild, the computer, is trying to get rid of this heat as quickly as possible. One of these methods is installing coolers (fans).

As mentioned above, coolers are designed to remove heat. This is a “hybrid” of a radiator and a fan, which is installed on computer components with increased/high heat generation. Main applications: CPU (central processing unit), video card, power supply, chipset chips.

The main characteristics of the cooler are noise level and air performance. There is one caveat - these two characteristics are very rarely combined with each other. The higher the performance, the better the heat dissipation, but the noise level increases. In short, it's a double-edged sword.

One of the main computer coolers is designed to cool the CPU. It looks more massive and performs well. Its “smaller brothers” are the fans on the video card, chipset and power supply.

The main “assistant” of coolers is thermal paste. Thermal conductive paste is used to reduce the thermal resistance between two touching/closely spaced surfaces. It is applied to the thermal contact area (between the cooler radiator and the processor/board) and smeared when the surfaces are pressed against each other. In this case, the paste fills the smallest depressions in the surface, displacing air, which has very low thermal conductivity. Thermal paste is already applied to the surface of most modern coolers and covered with a special protective layer.

I think I'm talking. Initially I wanted to offer you step-by-step instructions for replacing the cooler. As one saying goes: “let's go back to our sheep.” So, there is a task - replacing the cooler. To do this, we need: screwdrivers (cross-shaped and flat-headed) - one, a cloth/wet wipe to remove thermal paste - two, a new fan - three, and thermal paste (if there is none on the cooler) - four.

Turn off the computer from the network. Disconnect all cables. Take a Phillips screwdriver and run it along the back and side walls to remove static electricity (carefully so as not to scratch the case). Unscrew the screws and remove the side cover. We turn the “system unit” on its side. We see a big fan. This is what we will change. Turn the mount against the pointer arrow (located on the mount) until it stops, then pull it up. There should be a soft click. We do the same procedure with the remaining three fasteners. If instead of four fasteners you see two levers, then move the fastening in the opposite direction (as shown in the picture). The cooler can be removed!

After the fan is removed, you need to wipe the processor with a damp cloth (rag, piece of paper) to remove any remaining thermal paste. We take a new cooler, remove the protective layer covering the thermal paste, and carefully install the fan on the processor. There is a wide recess along the entire width of the cooler base, which should be located above the socket protrusion (see picture below). If you install it with the recess on the opposite side, the cooler will be skewed and there will be no connection between the processor and the base. This threatens the processor with a chip or thermal breakdown (“death” of the CPU).

After you have installed the cooler, try to refrain from tilting it, rotating it (pressure is also undesirable), or removing it. This is fraught with chips and failure of the CPU. If for some reason the cooler still had to be removed, you will have to re-lubricate the required areas with thermal paste. If this is not done, so-called “air cushions” may appear, which lead to overheating and instability of the system.

All that remains is to secure the latches. The process is identical to removing the cooler, only everything needs to be done in reverse (press the latches and turn in the direction of the arrow). We did what we planned. It's time to return the side cover of the case to its place, connect all the cables, and turn on the computer. Yes, by the way, in addition to changing the cooler, we did another useful procedure - replacing thermal paste(over time it can dry out, so we carried out a kind of prevention).

Now about video card coolers. They are easy to install (unscrew 4 screws, remove the cooler, install a new one, first freeing the thermal paste from the protective layer, tighten the screws), but it is difficult to select the right one (this process causes certain difficulties).

In order to change the cooler in the power supply, you need to be “friendly” with a soldering iron (if you have cheap models), because In almost all standard power supplies, the fan wires are soldered. There will be no problems with more expensive models. I removed the power supply, unscrewed the screws, removed the power supply cover, disconnected the old cooler (after removing the wires from the port), installed a new one, connected it, and tightened the power supply cover.

That's all. Step-by-step instructions for replacing the cooler in your hands, general information too. If you don’t want to waste your time and be nervous about changing the cooler incorrectly, then contact the KLIK company. Experienced specialists will help resolve any issues with hardware and software. Urgent computer help is waiting for your call.

The computer is very noisy

A perfectly configured and working computer is an important factor not only in the safety of your information, but also in a good mood.

However, a fairly common disease of desktop computers is the increased level of noise emitted by the system unit.

If the sound of a running computer is more like the noise of a running tractor or jet turbine, most likely the culprit is a faulty or low-power processor cooler that cannot cope with the load.

When the central processor is heavily loaded, usually during games or video processing, the processor temperature rises sharply, and the system reacts to this by increasing the voltage on the cooler.

In turn, a weak and ineffective device begins to make an eerie noise, causing not only irritation for the computer operator, but also, sometimes, a headache or nervous strain.

Cooler replacement

Replacing a weak or faulty cooler is in itself a fairly simple operation that does not require special knowledge or skills.

After consulting with a computer store salesperson and deciding on the cooler model, you need to purchase thermal paste, which is necessarily used to increase the thermal contact between the cooler’s radiator and the processor.

When choosing a cooler, be guided by the criteria of high performance and low noise.

The quietest coolers use a plain bearing. However, the service life of such a device is much shorter than that of coolers with a ball-bearing fan.

Attention! Important!

Replacing the cooler on the processor

Replacing the cooler must be carried out with the power cable unplugged from the socket.

It is most convenient to change the cooler on a wide table or directly on the floor, having previously covered them with newspapers, since thermal paste, in most cases, is a rather easily soiled and dirty substance.

Therefore, you need to work with it carefully, avoiding it getting on the surface of the table or floor, especially if the latter has carpet. Once it gets dirty, it will be difficult to do without such a procedure as carpet dry cleaning.

The inside of the system unit is usually very dusty, and before replacing the cooler, you should clean the chips from dust.

Elements and microcircuits of the motherboard are very sensitive to static electricity and mechanical damage, so hard dry cleaning inside the computer is not recommended; cleaning the microcircuits with a brush or wiping with a damp cloth is not recommended.

It is enough to carefully clean all surfaces of the motherboard and other hardware with a wide soft brush. And then proceed to dismantle the old cooler.

To do this, you need to disconnect the power cable from the motherboard, unscrew the mounting bolts or remove the mounting clips. After this, carefully remove the cooler and remove any remaining residue from the old thermal paste from the processor chip.

Then apply a small amount of thermal paste to the surface of the processor and install the new cooler. During installation, you need to pay attention to whether there is any distortion, and whether the surfaces of the cooler radiator and the CPU crystal fit tightly together.

After making sure that the cooler is installed level, secure it with clips or mounting bolts and connect the cooler power cable to the motherboard.

A significant effect of reducing the noise of a running computer can be achieved by connecting the cooler to the motherboard through a special attachment that will control the fan speed depending on the processor load.

A quiet cooler fan will save you from irritation and fatigue when working on your computer.

But if you solve any global problems on your computer. For example, you create games. Of course, you can’t do without replacing the cooler; here you need an initially expensive system unit, with a good video card and processor, and an expensive cooler so that the processor does not load 100%.

And most importantly, look and compare. After all, as they say, everything is learned by comparison!

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What is a computer processor? Many PC users, and especially beginners, refer to the entire system unit as a processor. And this is not at all true. A processor is a small part (slightly smaller than a matchbox) of a computer, which is located in the system unit and attached to the motherboard. Its main task is information processing. The more powerful the processor, the faster the computer works (“thinks”).

Many of us constantly argue over one important question: what is the most important part in a computer? Some argued that it is the keeper of all information - hard drive, others talked about RAM, without the presence of which we would not be able to manage the files located on the hard drive. But the answer to this question lies on the surface and is very simple. The most important, integral part of a computer is the processor. Thanks to the operation of this block, we can synchronize each installed device in the computer, and their stable and correct operation depends entirely on the performance of the processor. But in the end, the processor, like any other element of the computer, outlives its intended time, and the time comes to replace it with a more advanced one.

Processor removal instructions

In order to learn how to remove the processor, you must carefully read this mini-instruction:

1. First, disconnect the system unit from the network (in the photo it is the even power cable). But it is better to disconnect all connected devices and place the system unit on its side, since in this case it will be more convenient to work.

Don’t forget: you just need to disconnect the computer from the network by unplugging the power cord from the outlet.

2. Then you need to remove the side cover from the case.

3. Disconnect all connecting wires to the processor and fan. These wires give them power.

4. Remove the fan with radiator - the cooling system.

5. Now you can remove the processor, but first of all, you need to inspect its design. As a rule, fastening methods are made in the form of clamping levers located on both sides. When pressed, they begin to move away from each other, thereby freeing the processor from the entire structure. There is also a clamping lever on the processor itself; it should also be removed, after which we remove the processor.

6. Install the processor in reverse order. Please note that if the processor is in the correct relative position above the socket (its place), it should fit there without any difficulty. Then secure it with a lever.

7. It should be remembered that before installing the cooler and radiator, it is necessary to apply thermal paste to the surface of the processor, which will reliably protect it from all kinds of overheating.

The process of removing the fan from the processor

Dust is the main enemy of a computer; fans most often suffer from it. Typically, a computer has three fans. One is on the video card, the second is in the power supply, the third is a fan that cools the processor. If it becomes heavily clogged with dust, the cooling rate of the processor will drop significantly, which will affect the performance of the computer.

First you need to understand the type of fastening. There are two types: latches and screws. If it is a latch, pull back the two levers and remove it. When fastening in the form of a screw, you need to use a screwdriver, carefully unscrew and remove the fan. As a rule, the processor cooling system consists of a fan and a radiator and is a single collapsible unit.

A heatsink exists to dissipate the heat generated by the processor. Over time, the radiator loses its properties due to dust accumulated on it and also needs to be removed and cleaned. Before removing the heatsink from the processor, you need to determine what type of mounting it is, they come in the following types:

• on latches using a clamping bracket or pistons (the most common fastening);
• on hot-melt adhesive (mostly found on inexpensive devices).

If the radiator has a piston fastening, then the process of removing it will not be difficult. You need to squeeze the antennae of the piston on the back of the board and press it, doing a similar operation with all the latches, you will release the radiator. Next, remove it and replace it with a new one, or you can simply replace the thermal paste.

If the radiator is pressed with brackets, then you will need a screwdriver. The main task here is to bend the bracket away from the fastening hole. This procedure requires the use of physical force, but you should be extremely careful, as a screwdriver that comes off can damage the device.

Removing a heatsink from glue is a very difficult and dangerous operation, as you can easily damage both the processor and the board. The only way out is to heat up the hot melt glue. But this should be done extremely carefully, because overheating can be fatal for the chipset.

Now you have learned how to properly remove the processor from the computer motherboard and the fan and radiator.

All active components of a computer generate heat. The processor, video card, RAM and power supply generate especially a lot of heat. Natural air circulation does not always allow the heat generated to be removed until the temperature of the elements drops below the maximum permissible value, which should not exceed 80˚C. The optimal heating temperature for the operation of semiconductor devices lies in the range of up to 60˚C. This issue is especially relevant in the summer, when the ambient temperature reaches 30˚C. When the processor overheats, it starts to slow down, crashes and causes the computer to freeze. It rarely fails, since there is a thermal protection circuit.

Program for measuring processor temperature

In order to be able to find out and control the temperature of the computer processors and video cards during computer operation, sensors are installed in their cores. In modern computers, the CPU temperature can be found by going into the BIOS. But rebooting the computer while working on it is inconvenient, and during the reboot the load on the processors will decrease and the measured temperature will be lower than it was during the maximum load of the processors. But this problem is easily solved with the help of the program. All you need to do is run the utility and you can monitor the temperature of your computer’s CPU. Programs, as a rule, provide a lot of additional information on the operation of the computer.

I bring to your attention two simple programs that I have tested for monitoring the temperature of processors, which can be downloaded directly from my website. These utilities do not need to be installed; you just need to run them and immediately see the CPU temperature and many other computer parameters in the pop-up window.

Depending on the type of cooler, the connectors are two, three or four pin. The supply voltage is supplied to the two-pin connector by a wire black red wire (+12 V).

The supply voltage is supplied to the three-pin connector in the same way as to the two-pin connector, using a wire black colors (–12 V, first pin) and red wire (+12 V). But one more conductor has been added yellow color through which a signal is transmitted from the Hall cooler rotation speed sensor to the motherboard. This conductor does not take part in the operation of the cooler, since it is informational and allows you to control the rotation speed on the monitor. Connect yellow The wire is not necessary; without it the cooler will work just as successfully.

For four-pin coolers, the wire colors are different. Black– -12 V, yellow– +12 V, green– rotation speed sensor, and blue– to supply a rotation speed control signal from the motherboard. On the motherboard, next to the connector for connecting the processor cooler, there is usually a CPU_FAN marking, as in the photo below.

In addition to the connector for connecting the processor cooler, the motherboard usually has several more connectors. They are all the same type and easy to find. One three-pin slave is designed to connect a cooler installed in the system side housing. Next to it there is usually the inscription SYS_FAN. Another one or two are also three-pin without inscriptions. They are usually free and you can, if necessary, connect one or two additional coolers.

Four-wire coolers are rarely used. Typically, the rotation speed of the cooler is regulated by changing the supply voltage, which varies depending on the heating temperature of the processor.

The work must be carried out very carefully, making sure that the tool does not accidentally slip or hit the motherboard. Sometimes it is difficult to get to the latches and it can be easier to remove the entire radiator and then remove the cooler. But here you need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to apply a thin layer of heat-conducting paste to the surface of the radiator and processor, instead of the dried one.

It is possible to replace such a cooler with a standard one. It is enough to make a few fasteners.

According to the technical characteristics, a cooler from computer power supplies is a good replacement. Sometimes, a cooler of this size is installed in system unit cases for additional cooling. From the broken plugs from the space for installing additional cards, I made 2 strips. I screwed them to the cooler with the 4 screws that were removed when dismantling it. I cut off the power wires from the noisy cooler and connected them to the conductors of the new one using the offset technology. The red wire (+12 V) is connected to the red, the black (-12 V, common) to the black. Even if you accidentally connect it incorrectly, nothing will happen, the cooler just won’t work. The yellow wire, through which the speed signal is transmitted from the cooler, was not connected. I don’t like it when the rotation speed of the cooler impeller constantly changes with a “howl.” Therefore, the lack of feedback does not bother me.

Using 2 self-tapping screws, I screwed the cooler to the processor radiator through the gaps in the impeller. Self-tapping screws must be selected with such a diameter to ensure reliable fixation. If a self-tapping screw accidentally gets on the motherboard while the computer is running, it can damage it.

Tests, after replacing the cooler, showed quiet operation of the computer and sufficient cooling of the processor at an ambient temperature of more than 30˚C. The processor temperature at full load, according to the BIOS, did not exceed 60˚C.

Replacing a video card cooler

All video cards have coolers of original designs, and replacing them is especially important. It is almost impossible to purchase exactly the same one, especially if the card has been working for more than one year.

The cooler on the video card began to make unbearable noise. I decided to lubricate the bearing, took it apart and found that the plastic base of the impeller was cracked.

In this case, lubricant will no longer help; the cooler needs to be replaced with a new one. I selected the cooler according to the diameter of the impeller and found one with a larger size. This means it will cool even better than the existing original cooler. When selecting a new cooler, you need to take into account the size of the radiator fins, so as not to make additional fasteners and screw the screws directly into the grooves between its fins. I secured it with two self-tapping screws, which turned out to be quite enough, since the radiator fins turned out to be quite rigid. It can also be secured with four self-tapping screws. If you don’t want to fasten it with self-tapping screws, you can successfully tie the cooler by the mounting holes with a thick thread to the radiator fins on two opposite sides. They will hold up no worse.

The supply voltage was supplied to the standard video card cooler through a two-pin connector. The new one had three contacts. In order not to do additional work, I installed the video card in the slot and connected the cooler to the motherboard. They almost always have free three-pin connectors for connecting additional coolers. The cooler that was previously installed on the video card did not have a label and it is quite possible that it was designed for a supply voltage of 5 V. Therefore, if you connect the cooler to the connector on the video card when replacing it, pay attention to the correspondence of the supply voltages.

The test showed quiet operation and sufficient cooling of the video processor.

Replacing the power supply cooler

In order to perform maintenance or replace the cooler in the computer power supply, you still need to get to it. After removing the side cover of the system unit, you need to unscrew the four screws securing the power supply, which are located on the wall where all the connectors are located. In this case, the system unit must be positioned in such a way that the power supply released from its mounting does not fall onto the motherboard.

The power supply is removed from the system unit. From the power supply to all devices and the motherboard there are conductors with plugs at the ends supplying the supply voltage. If the wires are of sufficient length, then the connectors can not be disconnected, or only those from which the wires are stretched can be removed.

Having placed the power supply on the corner of the system unit, you need to unscrew the four screws marked in pink in the photo and remove the cover. Sometimes the screws are covered with paper labels and in order to unscrew them, you must first find them. The cover is removed by sliding upwards. You will be surprised by the amount of dust on the power supply elements. It must be completely removed with a brush and vacuum cleaner. Next, the screws marked in yellow in the photo are unscrewed and the cooler is removed. There are two wires coming from the cooler, red and black. Red wire (+12 V), black (-12 V). For ease of maintenance of the cooler, it is better to unscrew the power supply board and unsolder these wires, but this is not necessary; if it is enough to restore normal operation of the cooler, just lubricate it.

If lubricant does not help get rid of the noise, then you should replace the cooler with a new one.

Reducing cooler speed

If the performance of the cooler after replacement has become more than necessary, you can reduce the speed by reducing the supply voltage supplied to it. It is enough to connect one diode of any type, or several in series, into the gap of the red wire, with the cathode (it is usually marked with a strip on the case) towards the cooler. If the marking of the diode is not clear, then you can turn it on, as necessary, if the cooler does not rotate, swap the ends of the diode connection. One diode will reduce the supply voltage by 0.8 V, or to 11.2 V. Connecting in series, for example, five diodes will reduce the cooler supply voltage by 4 V, it will become equal to 8 V. By reducing the speed, you need to make sure that the processor does not overheats when running at full load. For this purpose, there are programs that allow you to control the heating temperature of the processor without leaving the operating system. Operating the processor in severe thermal conditions leads to a slowdown in its performance, and the computer may malfunction and even freeze.

All working parts of a computer emit thermal energy. Especially a lot of energy is generated by the video card, power supply, processor, and RAM. Air circulation under natural conditions will not always allow heat to be removed in order to reduce the temperature of parts below the maximum, which should not be higher than 80? C.

The optimal heating temperature to ensure the operation of semiconductor devices is 60? C. This question is especially relevant in the summer, when the air temperature outside the window can reach plus 30? C. When the processor overheats, it slows down, causing the computer to freeze. However, it is difficult to completely damage the processor because there is a thermal protection circuit.

To know and have control over the temperature of the video card and processor, sensors are built into their cores. The CPU temperature of modern computers can be seen by going into the BIOS. But it is inconvenient to restart the computer every time, and while you do this, the load will subside and the temperature will decrease, which makes it impossible to monitor the temperature during maximum load. This problem can be solved using the program. We launch the utility and monitor the temperature conditions of the computer’s CPU. In addition, the programs provide a lot of additional information about the computer.

We provide two simple programs for your choice that are used to monitor the temperature conditions of processors. They are free and can be downloaded from the website. There is no need to install them, we just run them and in the window that appears we see the temperature of the CPU and other parameters.

Real Temp only works under Windows, is designed to control temperature and other parameters, and works with Intel processors.

Open Hardware Monitor – works with AMD and Intel processors in Linux and Windows environments.

Why is a processor cooler installed?

To ensure stable operation of the computer, radiators are installed on elements that generate a large amount of heat. A radiator is a massive piece made of copper or aluminum with a large surface area. To improve heat transfer, apply a thin layer of thermal paste to the surface of direct contact between the radiator and the processor. This is necessary so that all micro-irregularities are filled. But this does not always help, then an additional fan, the so-called cooler, is installed.

The cooler allows you to drive a large volume of air through the radiator fins, providing a thermal regime suitable for the operation of computer parts. Thanks to coolers, computers have small dimensions. However, there is additional acoustic noise produced by coolers.

The air flow from the cooler can be easily determined without connecting the supply voltage. On the side from which the air flow comes out, the blades are bent. The cooler body may have arrows that indicate the direction of air and the rotation of the impeller.

Like all mechanical devices, the cooler needs maintenance. It consists in the fact that the sliding and rolling bearings are lubricated with machine oil. Sunflower, vegetable and olive oils should not be used. Since it will dry out and it will be impossible to resume the cooler’s operation. If the amount of lubricant has decreased, noise occurs.

Without carrying out preventative work on the bearings, they will begin to wear out and the cooler will need to be replaced with a new one. You can find standard coolers on sale that can replace failed ones.

When manufacturing video cards and processors, manufacturers install original coolers on them. There is no way to find these in stock. If one of these coolers needs to be replaced, there is a huge problem. You have to create an order and wait a long time, most often in vain.

There is a simple way to solve the problem. It consists in replacing the original designs with a standard cooler. The functions performed by the coolers are the same, the only difference is in the method of attachment to the radiator grille and performance. Productivity depends on the rotation speed and diameter of the impeller. The coolers have approximately the same rotation speed, it is equal to 5000 rpm. So, when choosing a cooler, focus on its diameter. The new cooler must have an impeller diameter equal to or larger than the old one.

The main enemy of cooling is dust. By covering all the computer elements inside the case, it reduces the efficiency of heat transfer. It is necessary to remove the cover of the system unit once a year and use a brush and a vacuum cleaner to remove dust. A particularly important place is the radiator fins of the video card and processor. Due to the layer of dust, heat transfer is reduced several times, which can cause a computer failure. The cooler also becomes a target for dust, which prevents the cooler from cooling, which leads to its overheating and combustion.

Connecting a cooler in a computer

To make the cooler work, a direct current of 12v is supplied to its windings. The cooler is connected to the computer using a connector. Previously, power supplies had a double connector, but now the wires are soldered into the printed circuit board, which complicates the process of lubricating and replacing the cooler.

The wires have to be soldered or cut and then spliced. Depending on what kind of cooler is used, it may have 2, 3, 4 contacts. If the connector is two-pin, the supply voltage is supplied via the black wire and is equal to -12 V (one pin), +12 V via the red wire.

Three-pin connectors are powered according to the same principle as two-pin connectors: red +12 V, black -12 V. But there is another wire, marked in yellow. It serves to transmit data about the speed of the cooler to the motherboard. It does not participate in the operation of the cooler; its role is to control speed and output to the monitor. It is not necessary to connect the yellow wire; the cooler will do without it.

Four-pin coolers have a different wire color scheme: yellow +12 V, black -12 V, green acts as a rotation speed sensor, blue sends a signal to control the cooler speed from the motherboard. The motherboard is marked CPU_FAN next to the connector. This is clearly visible in the photo below.

In addition to the cooler connector, the motherboard has several more connectors. They are of the same type and easy to find. The three-pin connector is used to connect the cooler located in the system unit case. Nearby there is the inscription SYS_FAN. Another 2 or 1 three-pin connectors that do not have an inscription. They are free, you can attach an additional couple of coolers to them.

Coolers with 4 wires are rarely used. Most often, cooler speed is regulated by changing the voltage, which can vary depending on the temperature of the processor. The wires that come out of the power supply have different markings. Black - common, yellow +12 V, red +5 V.

When connecting the cooler wires going to the power supply, red (from the cooler) is connected to yellow. If red is connected to red (+5 V), the rotation will be slow and it will be impossible to reach maximum speed. If you reverse the polarity, nothing will happen. You'll just notice that the cooler won't start.

How to replace a connector on a cooler

When replacing a cooler, difficulties may arise due to connecting the connector on the motherboard. Let's say the motherboard has a three-pin connector, and the cooler has a two-pin connector. This issue can be resolved without splicing or cutting the wire.

Contacts are removed from one connector and installed in another connector. To remove the contacts from the housing, take a needle or awl and press the contact retainer. To do this, you need to press on the place in the slot located at the outgoing wire, tighten the wire and remove the contact.

In the photo on the right you can clearly see the latch that secures the contacts in the connector body. All contacts are recorded using this type, regardless of their number and size. When all the contacts are pulled out, insert them into the connector of the other housing. Once they are installed, tug on the wires, making sure they are securely fastened. If the contact falls out, use a knife to bend the clamp, which could drown if pressed hard.

When you change contacts from one housing to another, insulate the yellow wire with a couple of turns of electrical tape or put on some insulating tubing.

This way, without cutting or soldering the wires, you can swap the connectors. This takes no more than a couple of minutes, ensuring reliable fixation.

How to replace a connector or extend the wire on a cooler by re-soldering

When replacing a cooler, it may turn out that the length of the wires of the new cooler is too short or the connector does not fit the motherboard. This problem can be solved in one of the ways described below: make an extension cord or replace the wires with longer ones. For those who know how to use a soldering iron, there is a method that will help extend the wires or replace the connector.

The wires are inserted into the cooler body through a hole that has a narrow slot. Shown in the photo on the left, they are soldered to the board, as in the photo on the right. Lubrication and soldering areas are sealed with a label.

Before we start replacing the wires, we unsolder the wires with connectors from the new and old cooler. Before you start soldering, take a photo or sketch the color scheme for soldering the wires. Why do we solder wires from an old cooler to the board pads, observing the markings. One of the wires I got from the donor was yellow. On the new cooler this wire is white. Don't be surprised if this situation happens to you.

Lay out the wires and apply a label. You can start the cooler. The check shows that replacing the wires did not disrupt its operation.

How to extend cooler wires without resoldering them

Having bought a new cooler, not everyone wants to resolder the wires. Yes, and there may be a case when the length of the cooler wires is not enough to connect to the motherboard connector. There is a simple solution, you need to make an extension cord.

Let's take a wire from an old cooler that has the same connector at the end and a mating part from the motherboard, called “male”. I received an extension cable from a processor cooler, the color coding did not match the standard.

The ends of the wires are stripped of 5 mm of insulation and tinned with solder. Then they are soldered to the connector that we desoldered from the motherboard. To insulate the wires at the soldering point and get an aesthetic appearance, we put on pieces of polyvinyl chloride tube.

The photo shows the result of the work. The method is convenient because there is no need to work with the cooler. This extension cord may be useful for other purposes.

How to open a computer system unit

To get to the cooler, remove one of the side covers of the system unit. You need to remove the one that is distant from the motherboard.

Important! Before working with any electrical devices, including the system unit, unplug the cord from the outlet. Now we pull the wires out of the connectors, you need to start with the cable through which the 220v voltage is supplied.

This wire is black, in rare cases gray, and is the thickest. It is installed into the power supply using a plug. The next step is to unscrew the 2 screws (top in the photo) that secure the cover. Slide the cover towards you, the hooks will be released, and the cover will easily lift up. Now we have full access to the cards and nodes of the computer.

This system unit has 4 coolers. On the video card (installed vertically), processor, power supply (not shown in the photo) and in the system unit case (on the left, illuminated by a blue LED). The cover should be put on in reverse order.

When you assemble, make sure that the wires that come from the power supply do not come into contact with the cooler impeller. This can lead to friction and additional noise, or even the cooler not spinning at all.

Which cooler is making noise?

It is not always possible to identify which cooler is making noise. It may seem like one thing is making noise, but in reality the problem is something else. This is due to acoustic resonance. To understand which cooler is making noise, disconnect each from the power supply.

This can be done by removing the connector or slowing down the impeller with your finger in its center. Do not try to slow down by the blades, you may get injured. If the cooler of the processor, system unit, or video card does not make noise, the problem is in the power supply.

Replacing the cooler on the processor

Recently, the processor cooler has become very noisy. Previously, the noise was made during the first minutes of turning on the computer. This indicated that it was time to lubricate the cooler, but I did not do it. After some time of operation of the computer, the noise stopped, as the remaining lubricant due to friction in the bearing heated up, fluidity increased, and the oil penetrated into the bearing.

This was enough to ensure normal operation. But, the first minutes of computer operation led to bearing wear. After lubricating the ball bearing, the noise disappeared for a couple of hours, then returned again. Finding the right size bearing was not an easy task. It is necessary to replace the entire cooler that has an original design. The search yielded no results. I had to solve the problem based on what was available.

Most often, the cooler is attached to the radiator using self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the grooves between the ribs. If there are no screws, you need to look for latches. In order for the cooler to be freed from the latches, they should be moved to the side one by one, holding the ones that are pulled. If this is not done, they will return to their original place.

This work should be carried out carefully, making sure that the tool does not slip and hit the motherboard. It happens that it is almost impossible to get to the latches. It's easier to take out the entire radiator and then remove the cooler. But please note that instead of dried paste, you will have to apply a new one to the processor and the surface of the radiator. Such a cooler can be replaced with a standard one; it is necessary to make fasteners.

The technical characteristics of the power supply cooler show that it is suitable to replace the old one. Sometimes, coolers of this size are installed in the system case, providing additional cooling. Having broken out two plugs from the system unit, which were installed in the place where additional cards were attached, I made two strips.

I fastened them to the cooler with four screws. I took the supply wires from the old cooler and connected them using shear technology with new conductors. Red (+12 V) with red, black (-12 V, common) with black. Even if the wires are connected incorrectly, nothing will happen, the new cooler will simply not start working. The yellow wire, which serves to transmit the speed signal, was not connected. I am not happy if the impeller rotation speed changes with a “howl”. The absence of this wire does not upset me.

Taking 2 self-tapping screws, I screwed the cooler to the radiator through the gap in the impeller. The diameter of the screws should be selected in such a way that the fixation is reliable. If for some reason the screw touches the motherboard while it is running, it may fail.

I made the replacement and started testing. When the ambient temperature was more than 30? C, the cooling was sufficient. When the processor was fully loaded, the BIOS showed a temperature of around 60? C.

Replacing a cooler on a video card

All video cards are equipped with coolers of the original design; replacing them is quite important. It is almost impossible to purchase an original cooler, especially if the video card has been running for several years.

The video card cooler began to make too much noise. I decided to lubricate the bearing, after disassembling I discovered that the plastic base of the impeller was covered with cracks.

In this case, lubricant will not help. You need to purchase a new cooler. I measured the diameter of the impeller and bought it; I came across a cooler with a larger size. It will cool the video card better than the previous one. When you select a new cooler, consider the size of the radiator fins. This is necessary so that you do not have to make additional fastening elements and screw screws into the grooves located between the ribs.

I attached it using two self-tapping screws, which turned out to be enough; the ribs have decent rigidity. Can also be secured with 4 self-tapping screws. If you don’t want to screw it, you can tie a thick thread to the mounting holes of the cooler and narrow it, then fasten it to the opposite sides of the radiator. This method of fastening is no worse than the previous one.

Voltage was supplied to the original cooler through 2 contact connectors. The new one had 3 contacts. To avoid unnecessary work, I installed the video card in the slot and connected the cooler to the motherboard. It almost always has free three-pin slots to power additional cooling. The cooler that was there previously did not have a label. It may have been powered by a voltage of 5 V. Therefore, if you connect the cooler to the video card connector, pay attention to the supply voltage.

There was almost no noise during operation, and the cooling of the video processor was sufficient.

Replacing the cooler in the power supply

Before replacing the cooler or servicing it, you need to get to it. After the side cover of the system unit is removed, unscrew the 4 screws that secure the power supply. They are located on the wall where all the connectors are located. Position the system unit so that the power supply does not fall onto the motherboard when released.

Next, remove the power supply from the system unit. From the power supply there are wires on which the plugs are located. They serve to supply voltage to the motherboard and devices. If the wires are long enough, the connectors can be left in place. Only those that are tight should be removed.

We place the power supply on the corner of the system unit. Unscrew the 4 screws, which are marked in pink in the photo. They can be sealed; to do this, tear off the labels and unscrew them. Then remove the cover. It is removed with a shift upward. You will be surprised to see the huge amount of dust. It can be removed with a brush and vacuum cleaner.

Why do you unscrew the screws marked in yellow in the photo and take out the cooler? There are two wires coming from it, black and red. Black wire -12 V, red +12 V. For ease of servicing the cooler, unscrew the power supply board and unsolder both wires. However, this is not necessary if you are sure that lubricating the cooler is enough for it to start working well.

If the cooler does not start working normally after lubrication, replace it with a new one.

Reducing cooler speed

If after replacing the cooler its performance has increased significantly, you can slow down the speed by reducing the voltage supplied to it. To do this, a diode of any type is connected to the gap in the red wire, or several in series, with the cathode located towards the cooler (marked in the form of a strip).

If the marking is unknown, you can turn it on as best you can; if the cooler does not start rotating, the ends of the dyad connection should be swapped. 1 diode will reduce the voltage by 0.8 V or to 11.2 V. Accordingly, 5 diodes will reduce the voltage by 4 V. It will be equal to 8 V. By reducing the speed, you need to make sure that the processor does not overheat under full load.

In this article we will look at such a process as removing the VAZ 2110 radiator fan. Why remove it? Well, there can be many reasons - starting from problems with the fan itself, ending with getting to the radiator.

What will be required for such a repair? Just a 10mm wrench and a Phillips screwdriver.

First of all, we prepare the car for removing the fan, for this:

1. We partially drain the antifreeze so that you can unscrew the upper radiator pipe and prevent coolant from flowing out of it.
2. Unscrew the terminals from the battery and remove it.
3. We tear off the air filter housing from the rubber clips. For convenience, so that it does not interfere at all, unscrew the clamp of the pipe connecting to it and disconnect the folded corrugation from below.

4. Disconnect the fan power terminal.

6. Now the top one. (In some VAZ 2110 models there are 2 nuts for fastening the fan. In 16-valve models there is one nut at the top and on the side).

8. Now you can lift the fan up.

This completes the process of removing the VAZ 2110 radiator fan.

For this type of work, in addition to a “10” wrench and a screwdriver, you will need a “13” wrench.

1. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the fan motor from the plastic casing.

2. Remove the clip that holds the wiring harness.

So we removed the VAZ 2110 radiator fan from the car and disassembled it.

The cooler is a special fan that sucks in cold air and passes it through the radiator to the processor, thereby cooling it. Without a cooler, the processor may overheat, so if it breaks, it must be replaced as soon as possible. Also, for any manipulation with the processor, the cooler and radiator will have to be removed for a while.

Read also: How to replace a processor

• Total information

Total information

Today there are several types of coolers that are attached and removed in different ways. Here is their list:

Depending on the type of fastening, you may need a screwdriver with the required cross-section. Some coolers come soldered together with radiators, therefore, then you will have to disconnect the radiator. Before working with PC components, you need to disconnect it from the network, and if you have a laptop, you additionally need to remove the battery.

Step-by-step instruction

If you are working with a regular computer, then it is advisable to place the system unit in a horizontal position in order to avoid accidental “falling out” of components from the motherboard. It is also recommended to clean your computer from dust.

Follow these steps to remove the cooler:

If the cooler is soldered together with the radiator, then do the same thing, but only with the radiator. If you can't get it off, there's a risk that the thermal paste underneath has dried out. To remove the radiator you will have to heat it up. For these purposes, you can use a regular hair dryer.

As you can see, to dismantle the cooler you do not need to have any in-depth knowledge of PC design. Before turning on the computer, be sure to reinstall the cooling system.

We are glad that we were able to help you solve the problem.

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lumpics.ru

How to remove the cooler and how to install the processor and cooler. Proper installation

Welcome friends to my blog, today we’ll talk about the cooler. We can say that every personal computer user knows

what is a cooler and almost every user had to remove the cooler to clean dust or install a new one. Let's look at the process of how to remove the cooler, how to install the cooler and processor.

A little about the cooler

A cooler is a radiator designed to cool a heated device. It consists of thin metal plates and a fan.

When the processor is loaded, the plates heat up; the air flow directed by the fan cools these plates, thereby preventing the system from heating up.

Coolers are different: noisy, silent, weak, powerful. Basically, the quality of a cooler is assessed by noise levels. A good cooler is considered to be one whose noise level fluctuates in the range of 20 decibels, it’s like listening to a person speaking in a whisper at a distance of 1 meter from you.

Cooler removal process

This article will be useful especially for beginners when cleaning the cooler from dust, which must be done at least once a month, and when replacing thermal paste.

Before you begin, you must completely disconnect the processor from the power source. Each system unit has a removable cover on the side; unscrew two screws on the rear panel and remove the cover.

As we said above, coolers vary not only in power and comfort, but also in appearance. Some models are attached to the motherboard using a single latch,

and others sit on four legs, see the picture below

In my case, the cooler is attached to one latch. Carefully remove the cooler and disconnect the wires. In particular, when removing the cooler, the processor underneath gets stuck and is removed along with the cooler.

We separate the processor from the cooler carefully without sudden movements. Make sure that the legs on the processor are not deformed in any way, otherwise the computer will not turn on.

Now you need to clean the cooler from dust. To do this we need a brush or compressed air. You also need to check the thermal paste on the cooler; if it is completely dry, then you need to change it to a new one to avoid overheating the system.

Cooler installation process.

The first thing you need to do is install the processor. Here you need to be careful and very careful. The process and the processor socket have markings to help you place the processor correctly. Let's look at the picture

Raise the handbrake to 90 degrees, insert the processor and lower the handbrake to its previous position.

Do not press on the processor under any circumstances, otherwise you will deform the micro-leg on the processor. If for some reason you have deformed your leg,

no need to panic, we will try to put it back in its original place. We take the processor and look at the row of legs where we made the deformations,

and we will try to make sure that the leg does not stick out from the row of other legs. We carry out this process on the other side as well. If you don’t understand what we’re talking about, write in the comments.

Now we have put the processor in place. Now you need to install the cooler, fixing the processor in the center of the cooler.

If you did everything correctly, the cooler sits down smoothly. When installing the cooler, do not apply pressure under any circumstances, otherwise the processor will be damaged.

The final finishing touch is to connect the wires to the fan to the same connector.

That's it, friends, now you have in your hands competent instructions on how to remove the cooler, how to install the cooler and processor.

If something doesn’t work out for you or you have any questions, write in the comments or subscribe to my blog and you will receive free remote help.

I hope the information was useful until we meet again!

life-pc.ru

Remove the cooler from the processor

This article will tell you how to properly and safely remove the cooler from the processor. Trying to tear off a fan stuck to the CPU has a high chance of damaging the “heart” of your computer. How to avoid this? I'll try to describe the correct algorithm and possible situations, let's go.

How to remove a fan from a processor: algorithm of actions.

1. The computer must be completely disconnected from the network before starting. This is understandable, another matter: is it worth waiting for it to cool completely?

Allow the radiator to cool - opinions differ.

On the one hand, this is true: the CPU can heat up to 90 degrees, you will burn your hands. But at high temperatures, the thermal paste, which is located between the processor and the fan, is more pliable; in other words, in a dry state, the process of removing the cooler can become a real problem. But this does not work for all types of thermal pastes. It won’t work with KPT-8: it’s pasty at any temperature.

I advise you to remove the fan when the radiator has not yet completely cooled down. When you touch it, your hand will feel warm, but not hot.

2. Turn off the power to the cooler.

To do this, pull the plug strictly vertically.

Any loosening is unacceptable. You will break the needle.

3. Remove the fan mount.

The type of fastener depends on the motherboard and each specific device. Some computers use brackets, others use some kind of latches. At first, this seems like a problem, but in fact it’s nothing too complicated.

If there are bolts, they should be unscrewed counterclockwise.

4. Above was the prelude, now let’s perform the action itself. When everything is disconnected, pull out the cooler with the radiator. And then they will come. PROBLEMS.

There is a 90% chance that the CPU is literally stuck to the cooling. Because of thermal paste. Be extremely careful: shake it up and down, left and right, clockwise, etc. Gradually increase strength and amplitude. It is forbidden to rush or immediately show excessive efforts.

Don't be surprised or scared if you pull the processor out of its original socket along with the cooling.

P.S. turning on a computer without a fan will kill the processor. With a guarantee and a control shot. Do not do it this way. Also, before assembly, don’t be lazy to change the thermal paste, good luck!

aswin.ru

How to remove the processor from a computer?

What is a computer processor? Many PC users, and especially beginners, refer to the entire system unit as a processor. And this is not at all true. A processor is a small part (slightly smaller than a matchbox) of a computer, which is located in the system unit and attached to the motherboard. Its main task is information processing. The more powerful the processor, the faster the computer works (“thinks”).

Many of us constantly argue over one important question: what is the most important part in a computer? Some argued that this is the keeper of all information - the hard drive, others talked about RAM, without the presence of which we would not be able to manage the files located on the hard drive. But the answer to this question lies on the surface and is very simple. The most important, integral part of a computer is the processor. Thanks to the operation of this block, we can synchronize each installed device in the computer, and their stable and correct operation depends entirely on the performance of the processor. But in the end, the processor, like any other element of the computer, outlives its intended time, and the time comes to replace it with a more advanced one.

Processor removal instructions

In order to learn how to remove the processor, you must carefully read this mini-instruction:

1. First, disconnect the system unit from the network (in the photo it is the even power cable). But it is better to disconnect all connected devices and place the system unit on its side, since in this case it will be more convenient to work.

Don’t forget: you just need to disconnect the computer from the network by unplugging the power cord from the outlet.

2. Then you need to remove the side cover from the case.

Processor Power Off

Fan Power Off

3. Disconnect all connecting wires to the processor and fan. These wires give them power.

4. Remove the fan with radiator - the cooling system.

5. Now you can remove the processor, but first of all, you need to inspect its design. As a rule, fastening methods are made in the form of clamping levers located on both sides. When pressed, they begin to move away from each other, thereby freeing the processor from the entire structure. There is also a clamping lever on the processor itself; it should also be removed, after which we remove the processor.

6. Install the processor in reverse order. Please note that if the processor is in the correct relative position above the socket (its place), it should fit there without any difficulty. Then secure it with a lever.

7. It should be remembered that before installing the cooler and radiator, it is necessary to apply thermal paste to the surface of the processor, which will reliably protect it from all kinds of overheating.

The process of removing the fan from the processor

Dust is the main enemy of a computer; fans most often suffer from it. Typically, a computer has three fans. One is on the video card, the second is in the power supply, the third is a fan that cools the processor. If it becomes heavily clogged with dust, the cooling rate of the processor will drop significantly, which will affect the performance of the computer.

First you need to understand the type of fastening. There are two types: latches and screws. If it is a latch, pull back the two levers and remove it. When fastening in the form of a screw, you need to use a screwdriver, carefully unscrew and remove the fan. As a rule, the processor cooling system consists of a fan and a radiator and is a single collapsible unit.

How to properly remove the radiator?

A heatsink exists to dissipate the heat generated by the processor. Over time, the radiator loses its properties due to dust accumulated on it and also needs to be removed and cleaned. Before removing the heatsink from the processor, you need to determine what type of mounting it is, they come in the following types:

• on latches using a clamping bracket or pistons (the most common fastening);
• on hot-melt adhesive (mostly found on inexpensive devices).

If the radiator has a piston fastening, then the process of removing it will not be difficult. You need to squeeze the antennae of the piston on the back of the board and press it, doing a similar operation with all the latches, you will release the radiator. Next, remove it and replace it with a new one, or you can simply replace the thermal paste.

If the radiator is pressed with brackets, then you will need a screwdriver. The main task here is to bend the bracket away from the fastening hole. This procedure requires the use of physical force, but you should be extremely careful, as a screwdriver that comes off can damage the device.

Removing a heatsink from glue is a very difficult and dangerous operation, as you can easily damage both the processor and the board. The only way out is to heat up the hot melt glue. But this should be done extremely carefully, because overheating can be fatal for the chipset.

Now you have learned how to properly remove the processor from the computer motherboard and the fan and radiator.

toprat.ru

How to remove the processor?

Most people who buy a computer work on it until they buy a new one or the old one breaks, but the computer also requires some maintenance, for example, replacing thermal paste on the processor and removing dust from the system unit, which in the end may even eliminate the option breakdown. Replacing thermal paste will require disassembling the bulky structure of the cooler and processor, and then we will look at how to remove the cooler from the processor, and how to remove the processor from the motherboard.

To an inexperienced person, all this may seem damn complicated when he sees all sorts of latches holding the cooler on the motherboard. But as a rule, two types of fastening are most often found, one is used for sockets from AMD, the other for sockets from Intel.

If you use massive coolers, the mount may even turn out to be a screw.

Regardless of the method of mounting the cooler, the order of work will not change. First of all, turn off the computer, even the power cord from the outlet, and turn off the processor fan by disconnecting the cord from the motherboard.

The next step is to deal with the radiator latches, disconnecting it from the motherboard. Trouble may await you here if the thermal paste has not been changed for many years. It could dry completely and firmly glue the processor cover to the base of the heatsink. You shouldn’t apply much force here, but you need to slightly start turning and moving the radiator from its place.

Now we need to release the processor by releasing the socket fastener. There are also two options here, socket mounting from AMD and Intel.

Once the processor mount is released, it is very easy to pull it out; you don’t even need to make any effort to do this.

You might be interested in: Intel core i7 processor, which is better? Which processor manufacturer is better amd or intel? The best amd processors for gaming Which processor is the best for gaming?

If a household fan, both table and floor, breaks down, do not rush to immediately take it for repair, much less throw it away. Most likely, a simple problem has arisen, and you can repair the fan yourself.

A household fan does not have a complicated design, and the principle of its design can be seen in the figure below.

If you look closely at the figure, it becomes clear that the electric motor, gearbox, crank, rotation speed switch and propeller that creates the air flow can fail in the device.

The main difference between a desktop cooler and a floor-standing one is the high stand in the floor-standing version. Otherwise the designs are identical.

So, the main malfunctions that you can observe in the cooler you purchased:

• the unit does not turn on, the power light does not light up;
• the device does not work, but the light is on;
• the cooler blades do not rotate well;
• the unit does not turn to the sides;
• The cooler makes a humming noise and does not rotate.

The unit does not turn on

In this situation, there may be 2 options: the light indicating that the unit is ready for operation may light up or not. Depending on this, the breakdown diagnostic algorithm will differ.

The light doesn't light up

If, after plugging the device into the outlet, the light located on its body does not light up and it does not start, then, first of all, you need to check whether there is socket voltage. This is done simply: take any electrical appliance and plug it into this outlet. If the device works, then you need to look for a fault in the electrical plug and cord.

To check the plug, unscrew it and check that the wires are securely connected to the terminals. To check the cable, you need to disconnect it from the terminal block of the device and “ring” it with a tester. If a break is detected in the cable cores, it should be replaced.

The light is on

The reason for this behavior of the unit, when the indicator light is on, but the fan does not work, and no sounds are heard, may be caused by breakdown of the block with buttons. To check the buttons, you will need to disassemble the button block located on the stand of the floor fan or the stand of the desktop device. But, before disassembling the device, make sure that it is unplugged from the outlet.

The operation of the buttons is very simple: there is an “on” and “off” position. It is necessary to check the “output” and “input” on each key using a tester.

If a faulty button is detected, it cannot be repaired. Therefore, the switch should be replaced or the connection made directly. This approach to solving the problem will help to put the unit into operation if you are far from the store, for example, in the country.

Faulty speed switches may also be the reason why the fan does not turn on. To check the regulator, you will need to put it in the maximum position and check the “input” and “output” using the same tester.

Cooler blades do not rotate well

If the fan does not pull and does not move air well, you will need to disassemble the housing in which the motor is located. Sometimes the fact that the propeller does not spin may indicate insufficient lubrication in the plain bearing installed in the electric motor.

The fan is disassembled as follows.

The fan does not turn to the sides

How to fix a floor fan if it stops spinning (turning) from side to side? It's all about crank, the mounting screws of which may become loose or unscrewed. To find out, you will need to disassemble the motor housing. If during operation of the unit the body turns with a delay or a complete stop, then you should check gears in the gearbox for snagging. It is also necessary to check the gear switch itself, namely, its movement up and down.

Disassemble the gearbox and remove the main gear. The shaft will also have to be pulled out. Apply lubricant to all moving parts and assemble the gearbox. If the gears are heavily worn, they require replacement, although it is quite difficult to find analogues of broken fan parts. In this case, you will have to assemble the unit without a gearbox and use the cooler in normal mode, when the air masses move in one direction.

The cooler makes a humming noise and does not spin

Cases when the fan does not spin and the motor hums are quite common. There may be several reasons causing this failure:

• lack of lubrication on the bearings (what to do was discussed above);
• capacitor failure;
• electric motor malfunction.

Capacitor failure

Repair of a floor fan in this case comes down to checking capacitor capacity using a tester. To get to the radio component, you will need to disassemble the motor housing. A detailed description of how to disassemble the case was given above. After removing the casing, you will see the capacitor attached to the motor.

The presented device has a capacitor capacity of 0.85 microfarads. For this reason, the device must be set to a value ranging from 2 microfarads to 200 nanofarads, as shown in the figure below.

In this case, after connecting the capacitor to the device, it is clear that its capacity is 0.841 microfarads. If we take into account the error of ± 5%, then the capacity of the radio component is within normal limits, and it is not the reason why the cooler stopped working.

Engine malfunction

When repairing a fan with your own hands, you also need to “ring” the electric motor in search of a breakdown. If it is faulty, the device will not turn on and will make a humming noise. It is necessary to measure the resistance at two stator windings, having first disconnected the wires going to them, as shown in the following figure.

As you can see, the resistance is also within normal limits, since its value is 1215 Ohms (1.2 kOhms). Otherwise, the device will buzz but will not turn on. In such a situation, the motor will need to be rewinded in a special workshop.

The device is very noisy

Since the propeller of the unit, the main task of which is to create air flow, is made of plastic (not always of high quality), there is a high probability of deformation of the latter. This usually occurs if the unit is left for a long time in direct sunlight, or near a source of high temperature. When deformed, the balance between the blades is disturbed, which causes strong vibration and noise during normal air flow.

Shaft vibration may also occur due to a sliding bearing sleeve that has become loose from long-term use.

Often when a device falls, when the blades are spinning, the protective grille is deformed. If a rotating propeller hits it, one of the blades may break.

To summarize, we can say that in different fan models, the main components and control elements may look different. But this does not change the principles of diagnostics and troubleshooting.

The most reliable fans of 2018

Table fan Mystery MSF-2428

Floor fan Stadler Form Q Fan Q‐011/Q-012/Q-014

Floor fan Electrolux EFF-1000i

Floor fan Stadler Form Charly Fan Stand C‐015

Floor fan Polaris PSF 40T

An increase in acoustic noise emanating from the computer system unit is usually associated with a malfunction of the cooling fans (coolers) of the processor, video card, or those installed in the system unit case. The noise first appears when you turn on the computer and disappears after a couple of minutes. The noise disappears because the lubricant on the impeller axis heats up from its rotation, becomes more liquid and penetrates the bearing. But over time, the noise becomes constant as all the lubricant is used up. If noise appears, it is necessary to urgently lubricate the cooler bearing, otherwise it will wear out and you will have to replace the cooler with a new one.

The cooler bearings need to be lubricated with machine oil. Trying different lubricants, through experience I found the best lubricant for cooler bearings, factory-made or home-made. If you don’t have any oil on hand, a couple of drops of motor oil taken from the dipstick for checking the oil level in your car engine will do.

Lubricating the rolling (ball) and sliding bearings of the cooler does not always lead to success if the noise is due to physical wear of the axle, bushing, race and balls. In this case, achieving a positive result will only be possible for a short time. If the cooler is noisy or rotates slowly (by the way, one of the reasons why the computer slows down and freezes in general as a result of processor overheating) due to drying out or deterioration of the lubricant, then a new lubricant will extend the life of the cooler by at least twice.

How to disassemble a computer cooler

Coolers installed to cool the processor, power supply, and video card are designed identically. They only differ in the method of fastening, overall dimensions and performance. Therefore, any coolers installed in the computer are disassembled and lubricated using the same technology.

To lubricate the cooler, it must be removed from the radiator and disassembled. It is impossible to lubricate the cooler without removing it, since the access side to the lubrication point is usually pressed against the radiator. The cooler is often attached to the processor radiator with latches that are invisible at first glance. You can read about one of the common options for attaching a cooler to a processor radiator in the article “How to remove a cooler from a processor radiator.”

To disassemble the cooler for lubrication, you need to carefully peel off the label, which is glued with a sticky layer, from the side to which the wires approach. To avoid damaging it, you should peel it off slowly.

Some cooler samples have a rubber plug installed. In order to remove it, you need to pry the plug by the edge with a sharp tool and remove it. This is easy to do, since the plug is simply inserted with tension.

The impeller in the cooler body is held in place by a flat plastic split washer fixed in the groove of the axle. In order to remove the impeller to lubricate the bearing, this washer must be removed.

The washer must be removed very carefully using two tools. The cut is invisible to the eye and you need to use the needle, pressing lightly, to move the washer around in a circle until it catches the place of the cut. Use a small screwdriver to press the washer next to the cut on one side, and use an awl or needle to pry it onto the other side of the cut and remove the washer from the groove in a circle.

This operation must be done carefully so as not to break or lose the washer. Sometimes it flies away and you have to search for a long time. Without this washer, the cooler will not be able to work, since the impeller will not be secured.

The rubber ring is removed and the impeller is removed. Another rubber ring is removed from its axis.

In a cooler that has been in use for a long time, the rubber rings may be completely worn out and only wear debris remains at their installation site. Unfortunately, such rubber rings are not sold as spare parts, and without them, even a lubricated cooler bearing can make noise due to the longitudinal displacement of the impeller axis during operation. If you have old coolers, you can try to remove the ring from them, maybe they survived. Usually, the rubber ring installed near the fixing washer is subject to greater wear, since when the cooler is operating, all the pressure falls on it.

How to lubricate a cooler

Before applying graphite grease to the surface of the cooler bearing, you need to remove old grease and bearing wear products with a cloth moistened with any solvent, especially carefully from the bearing bushing hole. A thin layer of fresh graphite grease is applied to the rubbing parts of the cooler bearing, and the cooler is assembled in the reverse order.

If the label is torn or does not want to stick, then most likely grease has got on the surface of the cooler body. You need to remove it with a solvent. If the sticker is torn or the adhesive layer has lost its adhesive properties, you can use tape instead to protect the bearing from dust.

Graphite itself is a lubricant because its crystals are scaly and densely cover the surface with a thin layer. The oil performs rather a graphite binding function. Applying self-made graphite grease to the wearing surfaces of the bearing, in combination with synthetic machine oil and graphite, will ensure long service life of the cooler without replacement or maintenance.

Making your own graphite lubricant for the cooler

To prepare graphite lubricant, you need to take a few drops of synthetic machine oil and add graphite powder to it. Mix thoroughly until smooth. The result should be a graphite lubricant with a thick consistency.

Graphite for preparing cooler lubricant can be obtained by grinding off the lead of a simple pencil or brushes from a commutator motor on fine sandpaper. Some brushes are made from a mixture of graphite and carbon. Therefore, if you are not sure that the brush is graphite, then it is better not to use such a brush. Of course, it is best to use industrial-made graphite for lubricant.

What to make a split plastic washer from
Where to find a replacement rubber ring

I received a letter by email in which site visitor Vasily shared his experience in repairing coolers. I liked his advice, I believe that they will be useful to many who are faced with cooler repair.

✔ If a split plastic washer is lost or broken, it can be made from a plastic travel ticket card; the main thing is to choose a card of suitable thickness. Business cards made from the same material will also work.

✔ If a rubber ring crumbles, breaks or is lost, a gas lighter can serve as its donor. There is a rubber ring of suitable size under the valve. Different models of lighters have different ring thicknesses, so you need to choose the right one. If you come across a ring that is thicker than necessary, then it needs to be installed on the bottom of the impeller axis, and under the fixing washer, put what was previously on the impeller axis from below.